We’re heading past the postcard-perfect facades to find the real Melaka: a place where the Silk Road didn’t just meet the Spice Route, it got married at the bottom of a bowl of noodles.At the centre of this global fusion is rempah - the 'mother paste' of roots and spices that defines the essential character of every local Melaka kitchen. We navigate the city’s ancestral laneways through 15+ tastings, hunting down the centuries-old trade...