Very close to the Laja River is Dolores, the town where José Alfredo Jiménez was born. Here the days are made of snow stalls in the main garden and majolica pottery objects piling up on the artisan tianguis. This is also the place where the priest Miguel Hidalgo lived, that man of libertarian ideas who took up arms against New Spain at the turn of the 19th century. History written then, today is remembered in museums, buildings and...