Beyoğlu has long been one of Istanbul’s great centers of culture, nightlife and dining, where traces of its cosmopolitan past mix with Anatolian traditions and a distinctly modern energy. We’ll begin with comforting homestyle dishes such as vegetables stewed in olive oil and hand-folded mantı before setting out through the neighborhood’s lively backstreets. Along the way, we’ll taste Black Sea-style rice and beans, sample şalgam, a...