A popular day trip out of Seoul, sprawling Suwon is the largest city in Gyeonggi-do province, with World Heritage–listed fortifications still looping around its heart. Suwon almost became the country's capital in the 18th century, when Joseon dynasty ruler King Jeongjo built the 5.7km-long walls in 1794–96 ahead of moving the royal court south. However, the king died, power remained in Seoul, and Suwon ended up with one hell of a tourist...